Spierhead Riesling 2010

Spierhead Riesling 2010
Kelowna, $22

This wine is from a new winery—Spierhead—in east Kelowna and if this is any indication of things to come, I expect greatness. Many new ventures take the easy drinking route in the first few vintages, fearful of alienating any potential customers. But owner Bill Knutson and consulting winemaker Tom DiBello have taken a different tack with this highly evolved Alsatian-style Riesling. It’s very light in texture and colour and eschews some of the grape’s usual sweetness —which can verge on cloying in inferior bottlings—for a very tart, minerally bite. Its long finish recalls baked green apples. An impressive first vintage.

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