Antica Chardonnay 2009

Antica Chardonnay 2009
California, $39.99

It’s tough to say which attracts people’s ire more these days—Stanley Cup rioters or California Chardonnay. The wine cognoscenti love to take a $20 bottle of oaky California Chard and then damn it for not having the finesse of an $80 Puligny-Motrachet. And while our southern neighbours do occasionally go overboard on oak and buttery flavours, when they show restraint the result can be a magical wine at a far lower price point than white Burgundy offers. Case in point: this $40 wine from Antica, the famed Antinori family’s winery in Napa’s Atlas Peak region. It sees only 30% new oak and has creamy warmth without being cloying. A colleague said it reminded him of soft lemon curd—a description that highlights its blend of bracing acid and softness.

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