2010 Summerhill Organic Riesling

2010 Summerhill Organic Riesling
Okanagan, $20

I used to be a little bit wary of Summerhill with its pyramid and its accompanying new age-y vibe, but its early forays into organic and biodynamic farming are beginning to pay fantastic dividends as the wine world awakens to the value of these farming techniques. I’m also starting to really love how CEO Ezra Cipes and winemaker Eric von Krosigk refuse to follow the pack on almost anything. Sure, riesling is a great street cred grape—especially in the North Okanagan. But many winemakers insist on making the wine in the very dry Alsatian style currently in vogue in the new world. Not these two—they go full Mosel-style, allowing some residual sugar to stick around. The result is a sweeter wine (though the acid balances the sugar very well) with lovely stone fruit flavours, a Meyer lemon finish and a jaw droppingly low 8.5% alcohol (neighbouring winery and critical darling Tantalus’ 2010 Riesling is 12.2%; CedarCreek’s version is 13.7%). The point is there are a bunch of different paths to get to great riesling in these parts—Summerhill just takes the one less travelled.

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