McWatters Collection Chardonnay 2011

McWatters Chardonnay

McWatters Collection Chardonnay 2011
BC, $30

One sip of this wine and I’m instantly transported back to the early 1990s. I’m working at the Wine Cellar in Edmonton and owner Hank Gillespie is opening a bottle of Sonoma-Cutrer Les Pierres, a prototypical Californian Chardonnay—oaky, buttery, pineapple-y. I loved it, but in the years since, legions of cheap wines from all corners of vindom knocked the style off—using rafts of oak chips to mask flaws in mass-produced plonk, the result being that the terms “oaky” or “buttery” in a Chardonnay became synonymous with plonk. So imagine my surprise when I opened this new offering from local wine legend Harry McWatters, and found that he’s not hopping on the oak-bad, stainless steel-good bandwagon, but instead has crafted a chard that’s opulent, rich and not afraid to say it tastes like “buttered toast” in its tasting note.

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