Ricossa Barbaresco 2009

Ricossa Barbaresco 2009

Italy, $22

In wine as in life, things that are usually too good to be true should be avoided. (That 75-percent-off beef tenderloin comes to mind.) So when I saw a $22 bottle of Barbaresco, I was wary. The famed Piedmont wine normally starts at about $50, and sublime expressions are regularly triple that. The noble nebbiolo grape just doesn’t do well when grown in the quantities needed to make a $22 of wine. But damned if this bottle wasn’t half bad, and frankly a lot more interesting that many bottles at the same price range. You have some of the lovely supple leather and dried herb and fruit notes of a classic barbaresco, and if the concentration is a little lacking, well, think about those extra $20s in your wallet.

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