Moon Curser Malbec 2010

Moon Curser Malbec 2010
British Columbia, $13

There’s some sort of ridiculous “World” or “National” Insert Name of Product You Wish to Peddle Day for every day of the year. Tomorrow it’s World Malbec Day, no doubt dreamed up by a cabal of South American vintners who aren’t satisfied that their enjoyable inexpensive wine has not yet total market domination. And while I’m not playing along, it did get me thinking about the conundrum that is Malbec and the seeming increase in acreage for the grape in the Okanagan. I’m far from convinced that selling $25-45 Malbecs is a sound business plan when Argentina can go toe to toe at under $20, but there are a few vintners that are interested in trying to extract a little more character and a lot more body from the grape than we’re used to.

At the top of this list is Osoyoos’ Moon Curser, who seem to love rehabilitation projects—they make a massive Petit Verdot and use large proportion of Tannat in their Dead of Night blend. Their Malbec is $30 and tough to find (it’s sold out at the winery) but if you track a bottle down, you’ll be rewarded with a wine that bears little resemblance to Finca Los Primos or any other sub-$15 Argentine import. It’s dark, heavy and needs a few years or at least some decanting and an hour or two of air to settle down. When it does, it shows some nice complexity with plum, spice and dark cherry—all in all a good way to spend World Malbec Day.

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