I appreciate the art of food and wine pairing and I generally try to subscribe to the broad principles, but I have to admit theyearly hand-wring over what to pair with turkey gets a bit much. For starters, I always open and start drinking the first bottle well before anybody sits down to turkey. We’re usually mulling about snacking on nuts or cheese or whatever starter someone has brought—none of which will likely be an ideal match for a wine that I’ve sourced specifically for turkey, and depending on the cheese it may be the perfect enemy for an aged Burgundy. So my advice: relax on the matchy-matchy a bit. If you like Cabernet Sauvignon, crack the cork man—it’ll go with something on the Thanksgiving plate and it’s unlikely to ruin anything. But I suppose if you’re hell-bent on having one wine that can cover all you bases you could do worse than the Rioja Rosado from the stellar Spanish producers Marques de Caceres, a serious pink wine that starts out light and playful but has enough tartness and spirit to fight through the numerous ladles of gravy that you’ll doubtless douse everything with.