Aging wine is such a dicey proposition. You have so many variables—temperature, light, tannins, wines entering “dumb” periods when their aromas shut down—in play that it’s always a crap shoot what the result will be. But people still do it because when it all works out, it’s such a revelation. I was thinking about all of this last week at Whistler’s Cornucopia with my nose deep in a bottle of Laughing Stock’s Portfolio from 2006. It had the heady, slightly musty nose that shows the wine has been hanging out for a long while. And while the tannins had softened, it was still a pretty formidable wine with deep black fruit notes and a muscular structure that showed just how well Merlot (which is the majority of blend) grows on the Naramata Bench. It was drinking really well, but my guess is it’ll continue to do so for the next several years. Good luck finding a bottle—though the 2011 vintage is available in magnum ($100) and the always awesome double magnum ($200) if you are in possession of just a little patience.